THE DENIM’S IN THE DETAIL

This season we celebrate the launch of our reinvigorated denim collection including a variety of lighter, summer-ready hues, as well as old classics, back with a vengeance. We wanted to take you behind the scenes, and explain some of the detailed processes that make our denim characteristically Jack.

When it comes to our jeans, it’s all about attention to detail, from the choice of warp (that’s the vertical yarn that forms the basis of the fabric) to the hand-applied finishing touches. We’ve worked with our Turkish supplier ÖZAK (which also makes our chinos) for a couple of seasons now because we want our jeans to look better than ever, every season. So we’re using denim sourced from the best mills in the world too, just to be sure.

Take our premium Fernham jeans, for example; the mill responsible for this particular denim is ISKO. With its roots stretching back as far as 1904, ISKO opened its current facility in 1989 in the city of Bursa and has since grown to become the largest and most reputable denim fabric manufacturer in the world. With more than 1,500 automated looms running under one (very large) roof the team truly means business.

To create denim you must start with a strong warp. For stretch denim (like the Fernhams) we use cotton-wrapped elastic to give the stretch warp added longevity. Next, and depending on what the final colour will be, we introduce the over-and-under cotton known as a weft; we use black cotton for dark denims, and you’ve guessed it, white cotton for the lighter hues.

At this stage denim is ready to be run through the sewing machines, resulting in a great pair of jeans. Sometimes we’re happy with this; however for most of our styles we prefer to engage in a little bit of chemistry. Goggles on, everyone. The washhouse at ÖZAK is a fabric buff’s dream. Full of various acids, pumice stones, bleaches, sprays and a few secret potions, this is where we can really get creative. Adding these ingredients in infinite combinations to the denim and washing them in six-foot-high washing machines allows us to build a portfolio of different and equally delectable ‘washes’ and shades.

There’s one more stage before they’re totally ready for sale as we always give each individual pair a final once over. A team of dedicated detailers armed with scrapers, grinders, sanders and sharp eyes add features to give each pair of jeans their own vintage-inspired character. These features include classic whiskers (the fronds of wear found on the thigh area), screen printed internal branding, and durable pillar buttons… we’re not going to reveal all our secrets so we’ll leave for you to discover your favourites for yourselves.

JACK WILLS CHINOS

JACK WILLS CHINOS

Where did we turn when we wanted to refresh a classic? To ÖZAK Textile in Turkey.